On Saturday 9th August Sam and John were married at Albury Park, Surrey. I have a very happy brother and a very happy sister-in-law (who are now in Hawaii, lucky dogs). Click the photo for the full set. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to Cologne.

John and Sam’s wedding on Saturday brought together seven (exceedingly well-dressed) members of 7 Days. So it seemed only right and proper to gather in the ladies’ loo for a photo, featuring: barrybloke, fionajblair, doow, russ, jbmg40, laurenhewings, jimmymoonbeam

Lauren later took this magnificently dignified shot below.

So, the third day dawned. We rose earlier than the day before, knowing that we were due to leave Hirschhorn about 8am, arriving in Heidelberg, where we would disembark, at about 10am. The musicians were, for the most part, still tucked up in their beds while we sorted ourselves out with some breakfast and watched the landscape pass us by.

We arrived on the outskirts of Heidelberg and sat for quite some time in a lock. Various other crew members were up now and keeping us company. There was no sign of the captain though. Should we get off here? Nobody knew. We weren’t in the city centre and it was thought that there was another lock further down. We stayed on board and eventually the ship continued on its way. Through the city … and then suddenly we realised that we weren’t exactly surrounded by civilisation and the opportunity for public transport links any more. No, this was more what you’d call being in the middle of nowhere.

“Err, Hannes, we needed to get off in Heidelberg.”
“Heidelberg was back there.”
“We noticed.”

The captain appeared. While he had known of our plan to disembark, I think his fellow nautical personnel hadn’t got the message. The big map was studied and pointed at, train times were researched online and it was arranged that we would leave the ship at Mannheim. Meanwhile the band and crew were gradually emerging from their beds, greeting us with bleary-eyed surprise: “You’re still here?!”

Second claim to fame for this holiday: I (accidentally) headbutted Xavier Naidoo’s guitarist, Andi. At Feudenheim lock the captain reappeared and told us we’d be getting off here. Andi was leaving the boat here too and tour manager Schrödi lifted me up to him on the wall of the lock. As Andi helped me up I gently headbutted him by way of a thank you.

We stopped on the bridge above the lock to watch the boat come through. A number of other people were already there, waiting to drop flowers down onto the deck for the band. After taking a few photos we hotfooted it down the road. Andi had told us we’d find a tram that would take us straight to the Hauptbahnhof.

Walking and walking, Suzy took my rucksack from me, turning herself into my very own pack horse. Damn, she’s a fine friend. With no tram in sight she asked a couple of natives where in God’s name we should be going and they pointed us back in the direction we came. Ah, that’s always a good feeling. Eventually we found the overhead cables for the tram. But the rails weren’t really anywhere to be seen, as the street was being dug up. Being educated ladies, we deduced that this did not bode well for the arrival of a tram to take us to the station.

A friendly shopkeeper called a taxi for us and while we waited we were advised that it would be best to get to Stuttgart Airport straight from Mannheim Hauptbahnhof. The trouble was, we were hot and sweaty and already had our train plan cemented in our minds. We wanted to go from Heidelberg to Stuttgart so that Suzy could buy a return ticket in order to get back to where her friends lived.

So we took a train from Mannheim to Heidelberg, where we bought tickets to Stuttgart. Then Suzy disappeared to talk to someone behind a desk and I discovered that standing in the middle of a station looking wide-eyed and wearing a rucksack that weighs as much as Hubert’s ship causes people to come and ask me if I need help. To which I answer that, thank you, I’m fine. My friend is … (wild flailing of arms) … irgendwo.

Suzy reappeared and it turned out that the tickets we’d bought were of no use in getting me to the airport before my plane departed. We went back to the “help” desk and were faced with BahnBitch, possibly the huffiest, least helpful railway employee ever to work for the German railway. We bought more tickets for a faster train, swore about BahnBitch and missed the train back to Mannheim by just a few seconds.

Back in Mannheim and with a bit of a wait ahead of us for the InterCity Express train, we took comfort in overpriced British chocolate bars from the vending machine. Once on board the ICE train we checked our onward journey. It’d be just about doable. We’d get to Stuttgart, make a run for the “tief” part of the station, from where we could get the next train at 18.28 hrs, with any luck arriving at the airport just a minute or two before check-in shut. Cue an announcement on board the train that there were delays and we’d be arriving at Stuttgart station at 18.29 hrs. Handy, thanks.

I leant across the aisle and asked a man if he knew Stuttgart at all - thereby impressing Suzy with my German. Oh, I know how to throw in a good “überhaupt”, baby. Would it be quicker to get the train to the airport, or a taxi? My neighbour wasn’t too sure, but confirmed that, yeah, we were screwed as we were going to be arriving after our next train had left.

Stuttgart. Suzy took my rucksack again (mental note: keep her) and we legged it through the station and followed the signs to the taxi rank outside. We fell into the back seat of a taxi, our probably somewhat manic expressions and inability to breathe indicating that we needed to get to the airport fast. Check-in was going to shut at 7pm. I’d originally hoped to be at the airport at 5pm. Our driver really knew what he was doing, changing lanes knowing which would come to a standstill, zipping in and out and gently cursing other drivers when need be. Along the way I spotted a poster for Hubert’s Stuttgart concert a few days before. Nice touch, universe.

We arrived at the airport, ran in and found German Wings check-in. Across the hall I could see a few people standing at the counter. This looked promising. Then as I walked towards them I spotted the time up on the announcement board. It was 18.45. We’d made it with 15 minutes to spare. Suzy and I fell on each other in the middle of the check-in hall, hugging and laughing. In spite of everything that had happened that day, I’d made it in time for my flight. Which was then delayed.

Click on our feet for the set

The second day Suzy and I woke up late - how did it get to 11am? - but fortunately life on the boat is geared to musicians who come awake at night and get up late, so we hadn’t missed breakfast or anything dreadful like that. The boat was already on its way to the next stop and Suzy and I watched pretty terraced hillsides pass by as we got dressed.

This was my first journey on the ship and I enjoyed the gentle movement along the Neckar, never really knowing quite where I was any more precisely than “somewhere between Heilbronn and Hirschhorn”. There were locks to pass through, people in other boats to wave at, photographs to take.

We arrived in Hirschhorn at lunchtime and the crew set to work readying the stage for a soundcheck. Rows and rows of chairs were being set up on land for the audience. Compared to the day before the proximity to the stage was fantastic; the ship was right up against the shore. Well, almost. There was just enough of a gap to jump across to give you something to worry about. That something being: oh my God, what if I fall down between the big iron ship and the big concrete wall into the big deep river?

That evening the arena filled up suddenly without us realising - dinner on the boat is served roughly when the gates open, which is tricky if you’re on the boat, hungry, but also wanting a first row seat. However, with a fantastic bit of luck a couple of people I knew were in the front row. I went to say hello to them as we’d never met and it turned out that the single seats either side of them were empty, so they budged up a seat and - bam! - front row after all. Perfect.

The concert was absolutely brilliant and I had the time of my life. I was on such a high afterwards. Being so close to the stage meant I was able to take some great photos too, a real treat having been quite far from the stage the day before. The whole audience was taken with the show and swarmed forward to the barrier for the encore. Even after that song we didn’t want to let Hubert go and our applause brought him back on stage with just his guitar to sing a folk song with which he used to end his concerts a few years ago.

Getting back on board we hung out with the band on the deck for a while before eventually heading to our bunks. We said our goodbyes then too as we were planning to leave the ship in Heidelberg the next morning - probably before all the artists would be awake.

Click for the photo for the set

Making our way from home to Hubert’s concert boat in Germany Suzy and I used an impressive range of transport. In the early hours of the morning Mum and Dad took us by car to Stansted Airport, where we had to take the Stansted shuttle to get to the right gate for our aeroplane to Stuttgart. At Stuttgart airport we found the trains and took the S-Bahn to Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof. From there we took a Regionalbahn train to Heilbronn Hauptbahnhof. Then it was a taxi to the concert site (my foisting a carefully prepared map into the driver’s hand and saying “dorthin, bitte!” made Suzy laugh). At the venue we went on board Hubert’s concert ship - and here I’m going to count his manager, Hage, lifting me on board as another mode of transport. Early the next morning the boat set off to the next concert site in Hirschhorn, thereby adding another mode of transport to our list. Incidentally, our journey from the boat back to the airport will be a whole other blog entry, having turned out to be a much greater adventure than we had originally expected - and allowed time for.

Having last year sailed the Danube from Linz to the Black Sea, Hubert is now going west along the Rhine Main Canal and various other waterways, heading for the North Sea. Along the way the ship drops anchor and the stage on the concert barge is erected and concerts are given from the ship to the audience on land. Locally renowned artists come on board to collaborate with Hubert and his band and in the evening there will be sets from both lineups, as well as performance of the fruits of this collaboration.

The guest coming on board in Heilbronn was the famous jazz musician Klaus Doldinger with his band “Passport”. Klaus wrote the music for the film “Das Boot” - music I didn’t realise I’d heard until he played some of it during the concert. Hubert and his band introduced him to Hubert’s pieces “Kohler” and “i bi ån”, for which Hubert wanted Klaus to join him on stage. “I bi ån” is an absolute firework played live and, sitting across the table from Klaus, I couldn’t help joining in with the vocal. I made him laugh, catching his eye and singing “bow!”. (The very start of this video explains what I mean)

Rain clouds were gathering as the start of the concert approached and, sure enough, during Klaus’s one hour set we started to get wet. Very wisely Suzy went back on board to grab our macs - and discovered that someone had kindly moved our rucksacks under cover, but not before they’d been rained into. Joy.

The rain continued through most of Hubert’s set and we got completely drenched. We were sitting on the floor of the grandstand, making it beautifully convenient to soak up the puddles around us on the boards too. I managed a few shots of the great show taking place before us, but mostly kept my camera huddled against me under my coat. I felt like a chimpanzee sheltering her baby from the rain - a certain shot from a documentary bright in my mind.

As arranged Klaus Doldinger came back on stage to join Hubert & Co. for “Kohler” and “i bi ån”, coming up with some fantastic improvisations on his saxophone. As is traditional Hubert also called on the audience to echo his vocals. “I bi ån” (pron. “ee bee on”) means something like “I’m fine, I don’t need anything from you” and despite being wet, after a concert like that all three thousand of us were “on”, baby.

Click on the photo for the set so far

I got back from Germany (by the skin of my teeth) on Monday. Lots of my own photos to come (assuming I ever catch up on my work), but meanwhile here’s a link to a Deutsche Welle “Euromaxx” report on Hubert von Goisern’s tour. Suzy and I can be seen in a few scenes, on the concert ship in Heilbronn.

Watch the report in English | Watch the report in German